The Journey to 100 Mountains (Part 1 of 6)

To start off this sequel to the 40 Mountains Project, let me begin with one of my favorite quotation from Lao Tzu: 

"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step" 

So I say, a journey to a hundred mountains start with a single excruciating step. In my case, that was a single step at the Babadak Ranger station in the Ambangeg trail of Mt. Pulag in 2009. A number of years and 40 mountains after, let's continue our journey to the awesome sights that the mountains can offer. 

To pick up where we left, let's start counting at number 41, the most beautiful mountain in the Philippines - Daragang Magayon!

#41. Mt. Mayon (2,463 MASL) via Lidong-Buyoan Trail | Albay

We had the chance to have a first-row seat to see Mt. Mayon up-close during Daragang Magayon festival. The group we piggy-backed in was granted a permit by the local government to climb the restive Mt. Mayon (permits are rarely given, if you do the climb legally). Don't associate Mayon's beauty with an easy, breezy hike since climbing this beauty is far from it (there are no easy mountains to begin with). Take note that this mountain is an active volcano and active volcanoes can erupt without much notice. While many are drawn by its astounding beauty, Mayon has already claimed numerous lives - local and international mountaineers alike.

Mt. Mayon as seen from the water source just above camp 2.

All of these backstories have added to Mayon's mysterious beauty. Shy, quiet at most times - hiding behind the clouds, but can be very unforgiving to those who challenge her summit. That's why I will forever cherish this experience. While many are contended to seeing her from afar, we actually ventured into her vast wilderness - you start with the exposed grasslands in an abandoned gold course, humid forest cover going up camp 1, then gradually changing into slippery slopes and smooth rocks as you reach higher. I can say, with no exaggerations at all, that this has been one of the most challenging climbs I did. Seriously. But all these experiences will give you a view like no other, the perfectly imperfect Mayon from a vantage point near her summit.

Looking back at the "highway".

I have seen a documentary before from National Geographic Channel describing that upon closer inspection, Cleopatra was far from what she has been depicted for centuries - a beautiful woman with a perfect porcelain skin. She had wrinkles and imperfections like any normal person does, but this does not diminish her perceived beauty that spanned for centuries after her death. Same can be said to Mayon. She is far from perfect as what we perceive her to be when admiring her from afar. When you reach close enough, you can see gullies, cracks and uneven perilous terrain - which can be expected of any normal mountain actually. But this does not diminish our admiration to her, in fact, we admired her more. And being this close to her is a surreal feeling, especially when you look back at the altitude you've gained and seeing the terrain below from up her slopes.

UPDATE:

So this is what the famous perfect cone volcano's crater looks like, at its summit.

The desolate, other-worldly crater of Mayon Volcano

#42. Mt. Kupapey (1,647 MASL) | Maligcong, Bontoc, Mountain Province

Your journey to Mt. Kupapey will most probably start at Suzette's Home Stay - since it is the most well-known of all the home stays in the area. You start to trek early in the morning to catch the first glimpse of sunrise amidst the surreal Maligcong Rice Terraces. During my trek up Mt. Kupapey, I was at awe to see a clear view of the Milky Way aligning the roof top of our home stay. I did not hesitate to set up my camera and excitingly await my long-exposure shot, then lo and behold, the Milkyway! This was my first Milky Way shot for my new camera - and I was impressed!

Starting the trek with a welcoming view of the Milkyway from our homestay

If this view does not excite you to trek before the sun is even up, I don't know what is. It was a great experience to look up at the sky seeing the Milky Way above you every time you take a short break as you go about with your trek. This was the second time I've experienced this, the trek up Mt. Ijen in Indonesia was the first one. But you cannot just get over this ecstatic feeling of seemingly being followed by the Milky Way like it was your first time - every time.

The rewarding view of the Maligcong Rice Terraces.

Depending on your pace, you can already reach Kupapey's summit by about 1 1/2 to 2 hours - just in time for sunrise. For a little bucket of sweat, you will be rewarded by the awesome view of Maligcong's hidden jewel - its rice terraces. There's nothing else to do there really, you just stand there and feast your eyes to this beauty as it is being lit bit by bit by the rising sun; its contours being exposed by the sun's golden rays as each minutes pass and the creeping sea of clouds at the distance adds to this mystic view. 

#43. Mt. Tapulao (2,037 MASL) | Palauig, Zambales

The mountain which was dubbed as the "poor man's Pulag" - Mt. Tapulao. This is actually the highest mountain in Zambales. As a former mining site, the trail up the mountain is quite broad which can accommodate 4-wheeled vehicles, as opposed to foot trails in most of the mountains that I've hiked in. This made this climb an annoying one. Due to erosion and exposure to the elements, the former dirt road became heavily laden with loose soil, and rocks of varying sizes. "Pucha bato nanaman!" is an understatement. 

The winding, unending trail up Mt. Tapulao

The mountain trail is full of switch backs, mainly because it is intended for mining hardware that used to traverse its mountain slopes. This can be very annoying because as you climb up, you are in for a blind-curve party. You'd expect a more forgiving ascent during each turn but get to be disappointed upon reaching the blind curve. Surprise! Here's another rocky hell for you! But fret not, water sources are abound so you get to wash off your disappointment with a refreshing spring water.

Welcoming the sunrise at the picnic area-esque Tapulao campsite

Its moniker probably came from the sea of clouds that traverse its neighboring mountains during the sunrise. But I have to disagree. This mountain resembles Ugo more than Pulag. Its campsite is quite established that it resembles a picnic area. One of the local guides quipped that the former governor even celebrated his birthday there - of course he did not have to hike because he had the trail "fixed" so that his entourage of 4x4 vehicles can manage to reach the campsite. This mountain is more of a test of patience than a test of endurance. 

#44-47: Takao-Jinba Traverse: Mt. Takao (599 MASL), Mt. Kobotoke Shiroyama (670 MASL), Mt. Kagenobu (727 MASL), & Mt. Jinba (857 MASL) | Hachioji, Tokyo, Japan

This traverse is our preparatory climb for our Mt. Fuji climb - the day after. It was originally planned to be done a day before so that we can have a day off to be able to rest and recuperate before our Mt. Fuji climb but that did not happen because it rained. So I used that raining day off instead to go to Odaiba and visit my Mecha Mecca - the 1:1 RX-78 Gundam at Diver City. Haha!

The Takao-Jinba traverse is one of the famous day hikes around Tokyo. You can reach it by the efficient Japanese railway system - it has a dedicated station at its trail head. The whole traverse is composed of 4 mountains but you can opt out at any stage of the trek since its trails are very established and there are markers (provided you can read Japanese characters). The peaks are popular picnic sites that there picnic tables and establishments at the summit of each of the 4 mountains, talk about love for healthy recreational activity. Takao's summit is very developed that there are many vendo machines around - cars can even reach this area.

The Takao-San marker

The Takao part of the trek is pretty much a cultural experience. You are welcomed by Shinto Shrines and figures around the trail. The experience takes me back to my high school days watching Rurouni Kenshin - with some of the epic fight scenes situated around shrines.

Sight of the 2 other peaks as seen from  Mt. Kagenobu (I think)

As you reach your third peak, you get to be rewarded of the view of the other peaks you just traversed and then you realize that this is not just another day hike. It's quite challenging actually. In fact, not all Japanese are fond of finishing the whole traverse. 

Into the woods.

What I like most about the trail is that it is widely covered by large tree canopy which makes it more bearable and refreshing to the eyes. The fresh air and the pine-y scent into the air transports you back to the Cordilleras in the Philippines - but of course the pine scent here is quite different. To think that this is just 2 hours (I think) by train from Asakusa.

The phallic Jinba summit marker

Jinba is the last peak of this 4-mountain traverse, from here, you will be rewarded by the most peculiar summit marker you will ever see. They call this an elephant marker. But for me this looks like a 4-legged white dick. Haha! What makes this day hike more challenging is that you must be able to make it to the 7-hour limit, unless you want to trek all the way down to the train station. Buses here have limited operating hours and owing to the Japanese sense of time, you better not bring with you our Filipino time - because it is not honored there. 

#48: Mt. Fuji (3,776 MASL) via Yoshida Trail | Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan

Fuji-san, the mountain that inspired a lot of art forms in Japan can be considered as one of the most beautiful and iconic mountains in the world. So when the opportunity came to climb this famous mountain, I grabbed the chance - who wouldn't? 

Mt. Fuji's summit as seen from Station 5

Your trek to Mt. Fuji starts at station 5, a mountain resort-ish area with all sorts of establishments from souvenir shops to accommodations. Tourists frequent this area to have an up close selfie at Fuji.The mountain trail we used is the popular Yoshida trail which is a straightforward trail up our cabin at Station 8.5. Just like other prominent mountains overseas, there are cabins which you can stay at - they  also sell food and refreshments. It is also a cozy way to spend the cold night. Also, don't forget to buy a wooden pole at station 5 and let it be marked at each station for a fee. I brought home my pole as a trophy cum souvenir. 

The last Torii Gate to welcome you to Fuji's summit

You will start the summit assault at 2am to reach the summit just in time for the sunrise. Although the low temperature at the assault was manageable (it was summer when we climbed the mountain), due to its barren terrain, we were exposed to strong winds so we had to be careful at every step of the way - unless you want to be swept off the trail.  

The Goraikou, sunrise at Mt. Fuji which inspired the Japanese flag

I just have to share that we were lucky to witness an epic sunrise, unobstructed by clouds since it had been raining the day before our climb. Our guide also added that there had been no clearing for days leading to our climb. So what do you do when witnessing such beauty? Capture the awesomeness then pause and admire the beauty that is the Goraikou. 

The Fuji crater

Mt. Fuji has 8 peaks surrounding its crater and you can actually trek all of it. But we were not allowed to do it during this climb because of strong winds. Since it was summer, there were little to no ice-covered area at the mountain (I was a little disappointed because I thought that finally I can be able to touch actual snow! haha), I just saw some icicles dangling from rocks. And oh, there's actually a post office on top of Fuji! You can send a post card from there. Awesome.

#49-50: Mt. Buntis (280 MASL) &  Mt. Nagpatong (100 MASL) | Maragondon, Cavite

To coincide with my 50th climb, we targeted to do the Buntis-Nagpatong twin dayhike. These mountains are historically relevant to the Game of Thrones-ish turn of events on the lives of Katipunan's Supremo and his brother. The two mountains are the proposed sites of execution for the Bonifacio brothers after they were tried by Aguinaldo's war council at Maragondon. 

The summit of Mt. Buntis

They say Mt. Buntis is named as such because it looked like a belly of a pregnant woman. The short trek up Mt. Buntis is quite interesting - you get to pass by rice paddies and do river crossing under the lush Cavite forest. At some point, you get to think about what was the Supremo thinking as he was brought up the mountain and probably seeing the same trees you were seeing at that moment.

After your climb up Mt. Buntis, you can have a quick historical side trip at the rustic Maragondon town. There you can find the Bonifacio trial house - the actual trial house converted into a small museum dedicated to the trial of the Bonifacio brothers. After a quick trip down memory lane, you can proceed to Mt. Nagpatong. 

Bonifacio Shrine at Mt. Nagpatong

Trekking through dirt roads and encountering cows chilling and chowing grass on the side for about 20 to 30 minutes, you will be surprised to see a sprawling Bonifacio Shrine - at the middle of nowhere. It is complete with brass sculptures and a small convention hall with a swimming pool. But of course it is already abandoned and not already maintained well. The marker at the shrine indicates that this is where the Bonifacio brothers were executed and buried - information probably came from eye witnesses and oral accounts. Up until now, their whereabouts is still unknown since their bones were never found. 

I intended this 50th climb to be personally significant by visiting this site. I am really fascinated by history and the intriguing stories that come with it. As what my history teacher in high school used to tell me (Because she always observed that I was bored during her class. I mean, who wouldn't be bored, right? haha!), one approach in appreciating history is like reading history books like reading a novel. It has intrigues, adventures, misadventures, plot twists and in some cases, comedy. Since then, my views on history changed - and it got me hooked. This is a converging point for me as a mountaineering and history enthusiast. Mabuhay ang Supremo!