The Journey to 100 Mountains (Part 2 of 6)

This second part of my journey to 100 mountains will bring us to two of the Philippines' popular knife-edge trilogy (now even claimed to be four - to include Mt. Sicapoo of Ilocos) to the icy winter trail of the Himalayas. 

Let me take you on a tour to my mountain numbers 51 through 60. 

#51-52: Mt. Sapari (592 MASL) & Mt. Binutasan (562 MASL) | Tanay, Rizal

These two mountains are situated in the province of Rizal, which is currently becoming a popular hiking destination among mountaineers mainly due to its proximity to Metro Manila. Rizal now has become what Cavite and Batangas was to me when I was just starting to climb. These two mountains are basically two adjacent hills that are fit for a day hike (or an overnight camp, I'm not sure if it's allowed). 

An introduction to the mountainous area of Rizal

You will be greeted by the sea of clouds as you start your day hike - provided that you start yours early. Actually this is what draws mountaineers to this side of town, the sight of sea of clouds creeping upon the mountain slopes - which is notably absent in the minor mountains of Cavite and Batangas.  

The Windows XP-esque slopes of Mt. Binutasan

You will be treated with a good view of grassy rolling slopes of Mt. Binutasan as you hike towards the summit. Since it is an exposed area, prepare to be toasted by the sun (during fair weather) or be blown by the wind and rain (during rainy season). 

#53-54: Mt. Malinao (1,548 MASL) & Mt. Masaraga (1,328 MASL) | Albay

Bicol Region does not fall short of challenging climbs. With numerous mountains that are born out of fire (the region hosts a number of active and dormant volcanoes), you will never run out of options. Just like the mountains of Mindanao, budding mountaineers are introduced early on to challenging climbs. Even day hikes can be excruciatingly difficult, just like my experience in Masaraga. These two mountains comprise the Albay's Magayon trio (including Mt. Mayon).

River crossings along the trail towards the expansive Malinao campsite

In trekking Mt. Malinao you will be treated with views of Abaca plantations, humid forest covers and river crossings with some minor waterfalls (that can be very slippery since the rocks are mostly moss-covered). This mountain's campsite is quite massive and can host numerous tents, pretty much like the camp 2 of Mt. Pulag. 

The majestic Daragang Magayon as seen from one of the "false peaks" of Masaraga

Mt. Masaraga of Oas, Albay is just adjacent to Mayon that on a clear day you will see Mayon watching over you as you climb the mountain's challenging assaults. The trail of Masaraga is composed of 60-80 degree assault from the campsite, with occasional short 90 degree scrambling - which can be very challenging when the trail is all muddy and slippery (especially on the descent). Since this mountain is not frequently visited by mountaineers, its trail are covered by tall grass and all sort of vegetation. On rainy days, expect numerous limatik along the trail. They call this the mini Guiting-Guiting because of its false peaks - just as you thought you reached the summit, you will be welcomed by another steep ascend to another peak, then repeat three (or four) times. 

#55-56: Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3,700 MASL) & Annapurna Base Camp (4,130 MASL) | Annapurna Region, Nepal

One of the well-known trekking destination in the Nepali Himalaya is the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). Not to be confused with the Everest Base Camp (EBC), ABC is located south-west of EBC with Pokhara as its staging point. To avoid major crowds of mountaineers, we opted to do the ABC off-season - in winter. I was scared and excited at the same time, even three months before the climb! Since this would be my first experience with snow and winter.

High winds in the afternoon can result to near zero visibility and awfully freezing temperature

In trekking ABC you will be able to pass through two base camps, the first one being the Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC). Machhapuchhre peak is popularly known as the fish tail, because well, it looks like a standing fish tail. The fish tail can even be seen from Pokhara and it is clearly a sight to behold. 

Raising the Philippine flag on an outcrop en route to ABC, Machhapuchhre peak at the background

You will be advised by the guides to push through to ABC from MBC just after lunch to be able to avoid being caught up in the trail at sundown where temperatures can drop to as low as negative 50 degree celsius (our team recorded -30 as the lowest we've had all throughout the trek).  

#57: Mt. Palali (1,715 MASL) | Quezon, Nueva Vizcaya

One of the (if not the most) prominent mountains of Nueva Vizcaya, this mountain's trail is predominantly reminiscent of Pico de Loro - only more bushier and muddier. It has steep ascent and descent on most parts and can be very muddy (because most of the trail is covered and can retain moisture even with the slightest of rains). 

Catching a breath of fresh air

The main feature of this mountain is the mag-asawang bato which are boulders situated on one of its prominent ridges. It offers an unobstructed view of the mountain as well as the Ambagiuo trail of Mt. Pulag on a clear day. This is a welcome treat as you enjoy your lunch and/or an extended rest.

#58: Mt. Halcon/Sialdang (2,582 MASL) | Baco, Oriental Mindoro

Undeniably one of the most challenging mountains to climb in the Philippines, Mt. Halcon (local name Sialdang) of Mindoro can and must never be underestimated. Its trail seems to be never ending and has its own weather system that can change at any time. As for us, it rained three out of the four days of our climb and we only had a clear weather on our time at the summit camp.  

Due to its unpredictable weather, mountaineers are advised to abort the climb at any time whenever the team's safety may be in peril. Along the trail, there are lots of river crossings - rivers that seem to come out of nowhere. Towards the base of Halcon below the Aplaya campsite, there's the massive Dulangan river which can swell and can sweep those who attempt to cross it when it's raining. In fact, during our climb, there was a team that were forced to turn back since the Mangyan guides assessed that crossing the river that time was dangerous. 

A marker made of marble at the site where mountaineer Neptali Lazaro died of Hypothermia (and exposure) in 1994 

Two notable deaths can be attributed to this mountain - which adds up to its notoriety. First one was Neptali Lazaro who died near the summit due to hypothermia and further exposure. A marker was placed where he fell. Mountaineers stop by this marker and offer a little prayer and some even leave trail food as offering for the deceased. The second death, which was in 2004 where a UST mountaineer Prana Escalante disappeared on its trails and later found dead beside a river northeast of Halcon. The Lazaro marker, for me, is a reminder that we are just mortals visiting the realm of the gods (as a local belief) and we must be respectful - and be well prepared both mentally and physically for the climb. And never, never underestimate the mountain - and any mountain for that matter.  

The "diving board", popular picture taking area near the summit

The mountain's summit is a sight to behold and pretty much like the best reward for the difficult climb you've endured. Laguna's Mts. Cristobal and Banahaw can be seen from this 'diving board' on a clear day. Just as the unpredictability of its weather, the clearing on its summit can be very unpredictable too so a little bit (or loads of) luck can be handy. 

A section of Halcon's 'knife-edge' trail

Just as its awesome sights and the experience it offers, Halcon's 'knife-edge' trail is my most favorite part. Trekking along it offers you an exhilarating experience that would make you come back for more... not. HAHA!

#59: Mt. Iglit (1,432 MASL) | Calintaan, Occidental Mindoro

Also from Mindoro, Mt. Iglit is popularly known to be the home of the mighty Tamaraw. It is a protected area where the Tao't Bu'id, a Mangyan tribe lives harmoniously with the Iglit - the local name of Tamaraw. 

Sunset session at Magawang view deck

If you are lucky enough, you can be able to see a number of Tamaraw grazing about from the Magawang view deck, a peak towering over the known grazing area of the Tamaraw, adjacent to Mt. Iglit. You can catch the sunset here and do a quick night hike on the way back to the ranger station (the campsite) right after. 

The Milkyway visible on a 3am sky

Reminiscent of the mountains of Zambales (particularly Balingkilat), Mt. Iglit is a grassy mountain with no cover at all. So it is advisable to start your climb early in the morning for you to avoid long exposure to heat. And if you are lucky enough, the Milkyway can be visibly seen as you ascend its slopes. 

The descent back to the campsite along the slopes of Mt. Iglit

Just as I said, never underestimate any mountain. Like this one. Mt. Iglit has a continuous ascend towards its summit and (surprise!) it also has two false peaks. And oh, the campsite is at about 400 MASL and the summit is at 1,432 MASL - that's about 1000 meters altitude gain just for that day hike. So bring ample amount of water and most importantly, patience!

#60: Mt. Guiting-Guiting (2,058 MASL) | Sibuyan, Romblon

Situated in Sibuyan, Romblon  (one of the three major islands of the province of Romblon), your journey to this mountain starts at Batangas port. As if the actual climb is not hard enough, the tricky schedule of the ferry/roro as well as its destination (Romblon, Cajidiocan or Odiongan - all depending on the day you board the roro) adds up to the challenge. The length of the trip is not so smooth sailing also, it takes around 10 hours for you to reach Romblon and catch another roro to Sibuyan for another 2-3 hours. Or much longer if you ride the Odiongan-bound roro where you need to ride a jeepney for around 2 hours to reach San Agustin port where you can ride another ferry to Sibuyan. Confusing, right? So in arranging to climb this mountain, prepare for contingencies, especially if you are pressed for time.

The last ray of sunshine, the calm before the storm

 So we opted for the 2-day traditional Olango-Magdiwang traverse and although we knew that there was a low pressure area brewing in Southern Philippines, we did not know that it would traverse to Capiz, which is near Sibuyan. So, as we settle at Olango's camp 3, we enjoyed the sunset - the last time we would see the sun for the entire traverse. 

Descending Guiting-Guiting's infamous 90-degree wall, on a near-zero visibility 

The wind started to howl at us at around past 2am as we reach the knife-edge ridge leading to Espana peak. It was dark and cold and the wind threatened to out-balance you at your every step - which is quite dangerous since this part is a knife-edge ridge, you could fall to your death. No kidding. So we reached the summit at past 5am and the winds started to bring with it moisture and we are now wet and cold. This went on all throughout the climb and we just had to tough it out because the longer you get yourself exposed, the more risky the climb becomes. 

Touted as the Galapagos of Asia, this mountain hosts numerous endemic fauna and flora

So repeating what I said earlier (twice), never underestimate any mountain. For this climb, luckily I brought with me my soft shell water-resistant jacket (which is the only jacket I brought!). I considered not bringing any because it's summer and I just had the hottest, humid climb weeks before in Mt. Iglit and it would be the same for Guiting-Guiting - or so I thought. This mountain boasts picturesque saw-tooth peaks and knife-edge ridges, and since we did not have any good clearing at all, this mountain calls for a come back. Soon.